A short walk today, over some fields, through some woods, through some vineyards and then along a canal. And then the most massive Gothic cathedral. In the proverbial “coquille de noix” that has been today.

My breakfast was mostly overseen by this regal moggy, who tried to remain aloof, but couldn’t help glancing over from time to time to see if I was likely to drop any tasty morsel. And then it was goodbye to Phil and Bea, my hosts and strike out into the bright, but chilly morning. There had been a frost overnight, and the first man that I met remarked that it was too cold to be out walking. I pointed out that I was English and the cold was good thing for me; he nodded sagely and went about his business.

St Saviour’s Church in Hermonville is a charming Norman affair, only slightly knocked about during the last Century of conflict. It was locked sadly, as was the Mairie, so I was going to to have to do without my stamp in my credential.

On the village square stood this rather wonderful book exchange unit; I mean, if you haven’t got a red G.P.O. Telephone Box to convert (ideally a K6), this is probably the next best thing.

Now perhaps it’s because Hermonville is not too far from Reims (population approx. 200,000), that there were no end of gaggles of walkers out today. I came across three older ladies who engaged me in rapid fire conversation. I managed to convey that I was not walking to Santiago, but in fact the way to Rome, was hoping to get as far as Switzerland. I’m afraid I was unable to address many more of their questions and left them arguing loudly whether I was English or German.

I then met variously, two joggers, a peloton of cyclists, a walking group and a number of dog walkers. I was used to having vasts swathes of forest to myself, so this was rather disconcerting. Happily they did not all engage me conversation, or I might still be somewhere between Hermonville and Merfy.

Seven kilometres on, I emerged from the forest at Merfy and caught my first glimpse of Reims in the distance. These villages are all very well-healed: no doubt the champagne effect combining with the desire to have a little country pad near the city. This house caught my eye as perhaps the most pretentious!

Soon though, I was wending my way down towards the A26 motorway and the industrial outskirts of Reims. I passed a sewage treatment plant (with none of the usual odours I would associate with such a place in the UK!) and then to the Canal de l’Aisne à la Marne. The skipper of this pleasure boat gave me a friendly wave as she passed, and I was pleased to see working boats and modern wharves as well.

It was a pleasant walk along the canal, spotting swans and a couple of herons. The e-scooters were a very present danger, but I took the precaution of walking on the land side, reasoning that if there were any problems it would be them that ended up in the drink and not me! I suspected with the weight of my pack I would probably sink like a stone.

As I left the canal and entered the bustling city, the familiar red and white flashes gave way for brass way markers set in the ground. They took me straight to the cathedral, and yet another opportunity to bore you with pictures of large churches! I had chuckled at my guidebook that sated “If you’re already tired of Gothic cathedrals, plan to skip any other church but this.”

It is a fabulous building, but the cathedral chapter (if they have such a thing here) could take a leaf out of Hereford Cathedral’s book and tap someone up for a good lighting scheme. The quire and sanctuary were excessively dark; it seemed a huge shame to pile flying buttress upon flying buttress to allow more window than wall and then to let so little light in! That said the Chagall and Knoebell windows at the east end are stunning and worth the visit alone.

I think on the whole I preferred Arras and St Quentin cathedrals, but I wouldn’t have missed my visit here. I was particularly taken by the gargoyles on the recently restored west end. Don’t get me wrong, there are thousands of statues of angels, saints and kings, but these bestial figures rendered half in stone and half in lead are wonderful.

The last particularly appealed to my childish side, as I suspect this chap looks as though he may be seated a particularly earthly throne when it rains hard!

Happily having only a short walk I was able to eat lunch and find a laundrette to sort out some washing during the afternoon. Much as I enjoy French cuisine, I decided that a big bowl of ramen would be the ticket and enjoyed a good spot of people watching while slurping delicately at my noodles.

And so another day draws towards an end. Tomorrow I have a long stretch to Condé-sur-Marne, owing to a shortage of reasonably priced accommodation through peak champagne country. However the map on the back of my guide book tells me that I am halfway to Besançon, so that can’t be bad!