Day two began following a broken night’s sleep. I think the sun from the previous day and the costly detours took a little more out of me than expected. However, I woke full of vim and vigour and had a good breakfast at the Logis Le Colombier. Happily the pastries were supplemented with a small baguette which, along with the Breton style pâté I had bought yesterday, made for a good lunch.

Now with being a pilgrim goes the responsibility of obtaining stamps at places you start or pass though, to prove that, stamped credential in had, that you are the real deal. In the last few hundred yards the night before I had clocked the Office du Tourisme and planned to prime up a stamp on my way past this morning. However much to my chagrin, said office was shut.

I walked round the side of the building to find that there was a Salle de Exposition – which I took to be some sort of exhibition space. I found this door open, and on entering appeared to have access to the whole building, and within seconds was in the closed tourist office.

With all the low cunning and experience of a former local government officer myself, I knew that the stamp must be somewhere readily accessible. I decided to draw the line and opening cupboards and drawers, but quickly spied my quarry. The small black stamp. Seconds later, and with a spring in my step I exited the building with another space filled in my credential.

The next challenge was finding somewhere to stay for the night. I had been unsuccessful in getting into contact with the desired B&B at Tournehem-sur-la-Hem, although I was beginning to wonder whether that was too far anyway. After breakfast I had met three Canadians who were also walking the VF and, commiserating at the difficulty in finding accommodation on this section of the route, they mentioned that they were staying at Audenfort, around 3km beyond Licques (the official end of the next stage from Guînes). Having practiced all the required phrases while climbing the first hill out of Guînes, I paused by an incongruous patch of Himalayan balsam and made the call. The charming Marion Pilot of La Moulin du Audenfort confirmed there was room for me at the inn. A huge relief!

The countryside here is rolling, though not challenging. The warm wind was strong at times and I spent quite a lot of the walk looking at my feet in order to keep my hat on. Much of the route in the morning went through woodland, with wild garlic in flower and some mud thrown in too.

I found a sheltered spot and a picnic bench near the gîte site at the Rue du Mât. I knew I would probably regret stopping so early (around noon), but the bench had clearly been placed with walkers of the VF in mind and it seemed rude not to. (Also, looking at the map, this was likely to be the last spot where my lunch would not blow away in the direction of the Channel!)

Lunch is clearly a risky time, as I set off refreshed, yet forgetting here had been a directional sign indicating a left hand turn. A small diversion which dropped into the valley below and then back up onto the ridge followed. But no matter, I was rewarded with some lovely views over towards Licques, and the opportunity to ponder whether all these baths had come out of the same farmhouse. A changing fashion in coloured tubs clearly!

After coming off the ridge you enter the small town of Licques. Sadly pretty much everything was shut, with the exception of the striking Church of the Nativity of Our Lady. This had formed the nave of a larger monastery and provided a peaceful and prayerful break – and a respite from the wind. There was no stamp to be found in the place (although I later heard that my Canadian friends had got a business stamp at the tobacconists).

However I was able to light a candle and pray for those at home and for all the blessings I have received so far.

And so a few kilometres beyond Licques I came to the hamlet of Audenfort, with its mill. A very friendly welcome, a reunion with my Canadian friends and a chance to relax with beer and an attentive dog, who successfully crept off his bed several times to say hello. A splendid repast of chicken with rice and a chocolate fondant for pudding and the promise of homemade sandwiches for tomorrow.

A lot to be grateful for today. Warm and windy, is a state of affairs with which I’m familiar often sharing a confined space with two boys, however for walking it is good news. And likely to continue for the next four days here, drying the ground and speeding me on my way.